I’ll keep the current data.
Always measure on a “flat surface”. If you don’t have a flat place, you can use the horizontal line of the laser marking machine and put a plywood or something on a low place to make it level.
My wheel has a “hub cap”, so I shot the laser beam parallel to the car body at about 100mm from the hub cap, and measured the distance from the laser beam to the wheel on both the driver’s side and the passenger’s side.
Driver’s side : 1mm out
Passenger side: 3mm in
TOTAL: 2 mm toe-in
Driver’s side: 10mm negative
Passenger side: 6mm negative
TOTAL: 16mm Negative
That’s the result! This is a completely messed up number! (especially camber) It’s no wonder the steering feel is so wrong with this one.
I don’t know when I went crazy like this…
Start working to achieve the specified toe and camber values of 0!
Fixing the Camber｜Laying down the aluminum wheels
Alignment must be adjusted with “grounded”, but it’s too small to work with when the car is normally stopped, so I jacked up the car with a garage jack and put the aluminum wheel without the tire under the tire.
I raised all four wheels, but I might as well have just used the front wheels.
The wheel without tire was shaped like a dent in the middle, so it was hard to take off the wheel and had a good sense of stability. By the way, if the tire is attached to the wheel, it’s too big to work with.
If you want to use a flat surface under the tire, pull the side brake and put a garage jack near the transmission mount to prevent the wheel from falling.
Recording and marking initial values just in case
It would be helpful to mark the numbers from the laser light and the location of the eccentric bolts in case you want to put them back together in case you want to put them back together.
If you take the pre-work data, the 19mm front side 19mm back side 22mm nut is tightened quite hard, but you can use a hammer or foot to loosen it.
A pretty intense adjustment?
In my case, the camber was way out of alignment, so I took a big hammer to the wheel with the tire on it, and once it was in the positive side of the tire, I checked it with the laser, and then I crawled under the car and pulled with the eccentric bolt to get it to “0” from the first number.
Even if the tire doesn’t move, it’s still air-filled rubber, so the lower arm moves surprisingly easily.
“It was supposed to be a tune-up, but we’re going to pull it to the max!
Before I started, I was thinking about how to adjust the front and back of the car (・・・・), but I ended up pulling both sides of the wheel as much as I could.
But I had to pull as much as I could on both sides of the wheel and the front and rear sides. Of course, I think it’s within my tolerance.
The cause of the problem is probably the sagging of the bar springs and arm bushings.
The eccentric bolts on the lower arms were probably just for fine tuning when the car was new, so they can’t be moved that much.
By the way, for some reason the rear eccentric bolts cannot be turned to the full scale on both sides, and can no longer be turned halfway from the zero point in the middle. I wonder why…
Unload the car and adjust the toe.
Once the lower arm is fully tightened and the car is lowered down, I will not restore the undercover, but I will do a quick test drive before adjusting the toe, in preparation for fine tuning the camber again.
The toe adjustment is done with both the left and right tie rods.
The tie rods were adjusted with the ground. Because if you do it only on one side, the handlebars won’t be straight even if you’re running straight because the center is off.
Loosen the nut on the side of the tie rod end and turn the tie rods with a 13mm spanner to adjust.
The tie rods are changed a few millimeters just by turning them a little bit. I think it was like 1/4 turn of both sides and 1mm.
I test drove the car at “0” position. I set the TOTAL “1mm” in because I wanted a more solid feeling.
Neither toe nor camber can be decided in one shot.
It may seem like a “quick and easy” job, but it was actually a process of measurement and adjustment, and it was quite tiring because I had to lift the body high on a garage jack about 7 times. I wish I had done that in the first place because I ended up having to pull the lower arm to the limit: ・・・・
Next time I’m adjusting the alignment, I thought it would be better to make a wooden wedge-like object and work on it.
What did we learn from this adjustment?
●The car will drive towards the tilt of the tires.
If the camber is not correct, the car will drive toward the tilt of the tires.
●The steering wheel will not come back.
Normally, the car comes back naturally after turning the handle as much as possible, but if the toe in is tight, it won’t come back.
●Toe-out is surprisingly comfortable! but
The toe-out seems to have a good sense of cornering as it cuts through, but when going straight, it is swept away by the slope of the road.
●Most comfortable by manufacturer’s standards
The fact that we found this out was actually the biggest thing we got out of this work.” There are cars with extreme negative camber, which is called “the devil’s camber”, so negative camber is better, or the toe should be in for better straight-line performance! The work was a sobering reminder that my vague beliefs about what I was doing were completely mistaken.