The front shock absorber bolts are stuck! The final step in removing a hardened bolt.

Machines are like anything else, but the older they are, the harder it is to get the bolt out! There is a lot of trouble with this.

A bolt that won’t turn at all!

Normally, it would be very difficult for water to get into the car, but the shock collar (the metal tube that inserts the bolts) and the bolts have stuck together so well that the bolts won’t budge no matter how hard I hit them, and when I turned them around with an impact, the entire bushings turned!

When it becomes like this, it is impossible to pull out the bolt except for destruction.

Under normal conditions, the bolts and collars move scantily, but the dimensions are very tight, so if any rust occurs, it will stick immediately.

However, I have replaced the shocks several times, the last time being about 3 years ago. The last time I noticed the sticking was last year, so it’s been about 2 years since the shocks stuck.

It’s hard to imagine it sticking that long, but the bolt in front of me now… it’s stuck!

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I applied a wetting agent to it.

I tried spraying Waco’s Raspene (wetting agent) on the shock legs.

When spraying, turn the handle off as far as it will go so that the nut on the shock foot is easily visible, then loosen the nut and spray the raspene on the bolt only so that you don’t spray on any unnecessary areas.

Once you’ve sprayed it, tighten the nut again.

Twice a day when I went to work and when I came home, I tried to remove the bolt again for a week.

However, the bolt did not budge, and I wondered if Raspene worked when I turned it with impact. Bush is now spinning harder than last time! Too bad.

It was a complete defeat for me.

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I heated up the bolts.

It’s a method you can use to take off a hardened nut, but it can actually be used on a bolt.

In the case of nuts, turn them while they are hot, but in the case of bolts, wait for a little while after they are heated up because you are aiming at swelling by thermal expansion.

The combustion temperature of acetylene is very high (3000℃) and it can turn iron red rapidly, but be careful because it is too hot and the threads are melted.

Personally, I think a gas torch (1500°C) will suffice. The important thing at this point is to

Heat it up so it doesn’t deform.

That’s the thing. I carefully reddened the lower arm a few times to avoid overheating the lower arm so as not to heat up the driveshaft boot and tie-rod bellows etc. around it, and then I hit it with the hammer when it cooled down!

But there was no sign of it coming out. Moreover, when I made the flame of acetylene too much oxygen to shorten the flame of acetylene, the combustion temperature became very high, and the thread of the bolt disappeared completely.

The bolts have been snapped into shape.

If I was going to do it anyway, a gas torch would have been better than a gas torch.

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I was forced to use a grinder.

It’s a last resort. If it doesn’t work, we have to destroy it.

But I don’t like using a grinder. The reason is that it will damage the stays that hold the shocks in place.

Besides, you can’t cut it with a grinder alone, so you have to use a spring or something to separate it.

When you remove the shocks and their legs, the bushings and collars are still waiting for you. So be sure to have replacement bolts and nuts ready before you do this work.

I’ve done this before on other cars, but since the bushings and the collars are bonded together with a strong adhesive, it takes a lot of prying and scraping with a screwdriver to get the collars out of the bushings and bolts. If you can, you don’t want to do it.

But even though I know it’s hard, I’ve half melted the thread in front of me and I have the bolt and nut…

I will not have any choice but to finish the job.

I removed the stabilizer and tie rods.

Can you jack up and remove the tires and start working immediately? But when I put the grinder in, it was inevitably too small to use.

So I removed the undercover and pulled out the four 17mm bolts that hold the stabilizer in place and lowered the stabilizer, and since the tie rods were still in the way, I detached the tie rods from the knuckles and went to work.

It’s surprisingly easy to detach the tie rod end from the knuckle, just hit the knuckle near where the tie rod end is stuck with a hammer and it will come off.

If it doesn’t seem to come off easily, use a double hammer. Prepare two hammers and lightly hold one hammer to the point of hitting the knuckle and then use the other hammer to hit the knuckle.

This will give your knuckles a stronger impact than a normal hammering!

And… someone said.

Can you cut it with a grinder?

As you can see by cutting the legs of the shocks with the grinder, after a certain amount of cutting, the blade will touch the stays on the lower arm that hold the legs of the shocks in place. Then you can stop cutting with the grinder and start cutting with the Chisel.

You can buy a new Chisel at the home improvement store, or if you have a Chisel, you can sharpen the tip of it with a grinder to make it easier to work.

However, the ring part of the shock foot is thicker than the rest of the shock foot, so you may need to cut it off as much as possible with a grinder.

What happens after the shocks are removed?

Even if you manage to remove the shocks, it’s quite difficult to remove the rubber bushings and collar afterwards.

Since the bushings and collars are well glued together, it’s not so easy to remove them by just inserting the cutter into the bushings.

But this time, I put the cutter in the bushings on the driver’s side and the bushings came off with a big smack! Apparently, when I heated the bolt earlier, the bushing peeled off the collar.

I was able to remove the bushing so beautifully and cleanly that I heated the collar to a bright red color and hit the bolt with a hammer…….and it came out. The bolt.

On the passenger side, the bolts had never been heated before, but the bushings stuck to the collar! So I tried to heat up the bolt.

When the bushings smoked up a few tens of seconds after I started heating them up, I stopped heating them and pulled the bushings and they came off beautifully. The collar and the bolts were easily removed by tapping on the collar as well as the driver’s side.

Paint Chassis Black

I’d like to put in new shocks as soon as I’ve removed everything, but paint peels and heated steel rusts easily, so I’ll spray chassis black where it’s been damaged by the grinder or mindlessly scalded by a burner fire.

I don’t want to do this kind of work anymore.

I didn’t want to do the worst maintenance like this one ever again.

After all, the grinder damaged the shock stays and hardened them all over the place…
The stay on the shock was also bent from hitting it too hard, and my original plan was to fix the top of the new shock and then pull it down to fix the legs, but I couldn’t get the bolts to fit, so I had no choice but to put the bolts in and then pull the shock up.

I’m worried about the driveshaft boots and steering bellows since I’m using fire at close range.

I put plenty of silicone grease on the bolts of the shocks to avoid doing this kind of work in the future.

It was not the most satisfying work, but the car felt great after the shock replacement, and we drove 250km round trip to visit my 72 year old mother later, and both of us were able to enjoy a long drive with no fatigue.

We realized once again that the most important point to reduce fatigue caused by long-distance driving is the “shock absorber”.