The shading tube needed to be machined to be used in H7, so I machined it.
You can’t use the shading tube as is.
I installed the shading tube as it arrived, but for some reason, I was still bombarded with upward facing headlights from oncoming traffic.
I turned on the headlights, got out of the car, walked around and looked at my car from about 50 meters in front of the car, and it was still quite bright. There seemed to be quite a bit of glare.
So I thought about the principle of shading and decided to modify the shading tube.
Why do we get glare?
Multi-reflector headlights reflect the light from the reflector to illuminate the front of the vehicle. So when the beam is low, the light is shone on the upper half of the reflector.
H7 headlights are designed for low beam only, so I installed them with the cut end of the shading tube facing up. But yet, that’s a problem because there’s also light directly in front of them and upwards!
So why does the light come out in the front and upward direction? That’s because the light is leaking out near the middle of the reflector.
It is necessary to insert the light shielding tube to the base of the burner, and also it is necessary to prevent the light emitted from the light emitting from the light emitter from hitting the middle of the reflector. To do that, I had to set the opening of the light shielding tube just before the luminous body.
Cutting light shielding pipe with a pipe cutter.
I tentatively inserted the shading tube into the burner, and when I cut two of the four frames on one side and inserted one of the cuts into the base of the burner, the notch fit the end of the luminous body! I found that to be the case. But here’s the problem…how do you cut it?
I tried to machine it with a gold saw before, but failed. The cut was too dirty and I couldn’t fix the cut with a file. So I decided to use a pipe cutter. This time I decided to use the pipe cutter which I bought at the home center.
As soon as I entered the second step, I turned the shading tube while tightening the blade of the pipe cutter and cut it carefully, little by little. The shading tube is made of aluminum, so it was easier than I thought it would be. The cut was surprisingly clean, too.
When the shade burner is completed, be sure to turn it on for a few minutes before installing it.
If you can cut the tube, the part is done! Now you just need to assemble it to the burner.
Insert the small one into the base of the burner first, then the one with a notch at the light emitting point, and make sure the notch is right on the edge of the light emitting point.
Make sure to burn it empty before putting it in the headlight. After all, I’ve been touching them with my hands, so they are sticky.
You can see the smoke coming out of the headlights when I burned them out. If you put them on the headlights without emptying them, the smoke will get stuck in the headlights and fog up the reflectors and glass.
Don’t touch the burner right away after an empty fire! Because it’s getting very hot.
Adjust the shading tube after installing the burner.
After inserting the finished burner into the headlight, adjust the light axis with just fixing the burner base with the mouthpiece. The reason for this is because if the direction of the light shielding tube is inadequate, you can remove the burner at that point and adjust it immediately.
Ideally, the light should be level on both sides.
By the way, you can tighten the fixation screw of the shading tube strongly. I was worried that the burner might break, but it is quite strong.
Shading tubes can move when you’re driving.
Unfortunately, a few days after the shading tube was installed, the light’s optical axis started to go wrong, so I took a closer look and found that the shading tube was moving…
I thought I had it securely attached, but the heat seems to take the tension out of the aluminum. Now I have a stainless steel stopper attached to the base of the aluminum shading tube, so it has stopped moving.
I think it’s best not to put anything extra around the headlights, assuming they need to be adjusted from time to time after the shade tube is installed.
We’ll adjust the optical axis when it gets dark.
Because you can’t clearly see the axis of light until it’s completely dark. Unlike vehicle inspection, I want to make the axis of light satisfactory to me.
Basically, it’s like lighting up the front about 30m away. Be careful not to set the light axis too high.
You can adjust the optical axis up and down by turning the screw on the back side of the headlight. The tool is easy to turn with a Phillips headlight driver or 10mm socket driver.
When you turn it clockwise, you can point the optical axis up, and when you turn it counterclockwise, you can point it down.
And, in fact, it can be adjusted left and right.
There’s a round gear-like object at the end of the red circle hole.
If you bite a Phillips head screwdriver in here and turn it, it will move left and right.
Well, there’s usually nothing to adjust.
Even though it’s darker than before, HIDs are still nice!
The brightness is half as bright as before installing the light-shielding tube, but the brightness is still much brighter than the halogen bulb.
It’s the asphalt on a rainy day that makes the most difference!
I can see the road surface properly. However, I felt the high beams were darker than the low beams, so I have now changed the high beams to HID as well.
There’s no shading, so it’s really bright!
The frown of oncoming cars is gone. I guess the shading worked well. Has the low beam shading tube settled down? It has stopped working.
At present, this shading tube seems to be sold only at some auction site… Why is that? No demand?
I think it’s a necessity if you want to install an external HID in a multi-reflector type headlight like the Space Gear. Well, it depends on the car. What would I do if I didn’t have this light-shielding tube?
Burner paint with heat resistant paint? But if the paint started peeling off in the heat, it would be disastrous.
If I’m going to use HIDs to the fullest, I might as well use projector headlights.