What’s the best headlight for the L400 Delica Space Gear, I switched to HIDs.

Currently (2018) in Japan, the law has changed a bit since this article was written, and if you use shading tubes, if the “cutoff” (the left side is slightly raised) is removed, you won’t be able to pass the inspection, so if you want to get HID, I recommend you to use domestic HIDs that don’t need shading tubes from the start.

HighLow independent space gear HID is surprisingly easy

The H7 low beam and H1 high beam space gears are easy to install because you just have to install a single burner for each. Plus, there’s enough space under the hood near the headlights so you don’t have much trouble installing the igniter.

HID kit! Will the cheap ones break quickly?

The H4 type burners don’t seem to last as long as the burners themselves switch high and low, but the single burner types that have independent high and low beams, like the Space Gear, last a little longer, even the cheap ones.

The burner on the cheap kit I’m using now has lasted 4 years and the igniter is already 6 years old, but it’s OK.

A burner that’s too bright will always get a complaint if it’s not adjusted!

If you look closely at the headlights of stock multi-reflector type (reflective) HID vehicles, you can see that the lower half of the burner’s emission point is completely shaded.

In contrast, Space Gear’s headlights have only the entire surface of the headlight, not the area around the bulb.

So, if you install an HID kit, the glare of the headlight will make oncoming cars to be attracted by the glare.

So, I bought a light shielding tube from an auction site and used it to shade the burner.

This light shielding tube is a type of aluminum burner cover.

That way, by emitting light only from the top half of the burner, it prevents the light from spreading upward by throwing the light only on the reflector in the top half of the headlight.

Nowadays, we have no complaints from oncoming traffic.

Shading the burner halves the brightness.

When the burner is successfully shaded against oncoming traffic, you’ll notice that the brightness is halved compared to the unshaded state. Well, it can be said that it’s too bright when it’s not shaded…

But alongside the stock HID cars, the brightness is about the same as the manufacturer’s stock HIDs. I guess that’s what you end up with if you don’t have a glare light.

Even though it’s darker, it’s much brighter than the halogen bulb. It also reflects the road surface at night on a rainy day.

But if you think you can get rid of the glare with no shading, it didn’t work out that way.

Do you want to go to 35W or 55W? There’s also heat damage, so it’s hard to say.

You might think, “If I use 35W shading, it’s going to be darker than I thought, so I’ll use 55W,” but there’s a part of me that doesn’t agree with that.

The one I’m installing now is 35W, and if you look closely inside the headlight, the area above the burner slug of the reflector (reflector) is dull. I think it’s probably just the heat from the burner.

Well, I’m leaving it alone at the moment because there’s no problem with the brightness, but I think it will get a lot hotter at 55W.

Of course, the 55W brightness is very attractive. But one of the reasons I originally chose to use HIDs is because they consume less power than halogens.

I run a lot at night, so I like the smaller power consumption.

When the burner is well shaded, the light axis comes out beautifully. Shading Tips.

If the shading doesn’t work, the border between light and dark can be blurred and eventually glare light can appear.

The light axis reflected on the side walls is not very cool, but if the multi-reflector headlights are well shaded, they can produce a beautiful light axis just like projector headlights.

It’s just like a projector headlight.

The key to shading is to shade the light from the burner’s base to the very end of the emission point. If you expose the emission point, the light axis will not come out well, so you need to be careful.

HIDs need to be careful with the number of kelvins on the burner.

The most commonly sold external HID is 6000K. I had 6000K at first. The glow is very beautiful, but the road surface reflected

I’m not sure what the freezing conditions are.

This is a phenomenon. A truck driver I know said the same thing. The higher the color temperature, the bluer it is.

In winter, when the road surface is wet and starts to freeze, it shines, but with HIDs, you can’t really tell if it’s wet or frozen.

When one of the burners went out, I put in a 4000K burner, and I wondered if it was wet or frozen like it was with the halogen. I can now understand.

The Kelvin number of the burner seems to be practical at about 4000K which is used in stock. The luminescence color is white, and the road surface looks like brighter halogen.

Be careful when buying your first HID kit! You’ll need an adapter.

This isn’t announced by the sales site as being unfriendly, but you always need an adapter when you install an external HID of the H7 or H1 type into your space gear, and even if you push the burner from the HID kit into the headlight, you can’t hold the headlight burner in place because the hardware isn’t thick enough.

When I bought the kit for the first time, I found out that I couldn’t install the headlight in this way, so I bought a rubber plate at the home improvement store and made an adapter by myself.

HIDs can’t melt snow.

When it snows, the snow sticks to the headlights. With halogen bulbs, the snow would stick to the headlights and gradually melt away, but after I installed HIDs, the snow didn’t melt anymore.

Maybe the HID’s don’t emit heat rays like infrared light does.

The burner itself gets very hot, though. It’s because the way of luminescence is different. It can’t be helped.

If you remove the snow from the headlights before driving, there’s not much inconvenience.