“What is the unfortunate reason for the later models to be fitted with glow plugs that have lower performance than the earlier models? Just recall the damn thing!

When the early model 4M40 was repaired due to a complaint of poor starting, I had to replace the glow plugs that didn’t need to be replaced, so I decided to recoup the loss with a later model and installed a low priced one! And the rumors sound so real.

A disappointing glow plug.

I think the glow plugs of a diesel engine are usually the parts that are not replaced until the car is scrapped. However, the glow plug of the late model 4M40 does not last long.

Apparently, the cause seems to be because the glow plug is different between the early model 4M40 and the late model 4M40.
Although it is a copy of another site, the glow plug installed in the early model is mainly a ceramic plug made by DENSO. The glow plugs installed in the later models are mainly metal plugs made by Bosch.

The price is about $50 for one ceramic plug and about $25 for the metal plug. About half the price. By the way, when I told the guy at the machine shop that the space gear glow plugs cost $200 just for the parts, he said

Awesome!

I’ve been told that ^^;

If it’s a good product, I’ll buy it.

I would buy a good part, even if it’s expensive, but nowadays they don’t even carry ceramic plugs (somehow I just found them!) Are they reselling them? (As of January 2017) There is no other option than to buy the metal plugs. The price seems to be on par with the previous ceramic plugs (about $50).

About $50 for a metal plug (1 plug)
Mitsubishi Genuine Glow Plug ME203754 1pc

Approximately $100 per ceramic plug (1 plug)
Mitsubishi Genuine Glow Plug ME201638 1pc

Ceramic plugs x 4 = $500?

By the way, the metal glow seems to have the genuine Mitsubishi part number ME201632 and ME203754 (above). Maybe it is only the difference between the manufacturers, but which one is better? is unknown.

I’m afraid of failing to replace the glow plug.

Once the intercooler and connection plate are removed, all that’s left to do is replace the four glow plugs with a 12mm long socket. However, you must be absolutely careful.

Never break a glow plug!

Unlike a bolt, the glow plug is like a hollow precision machine, so do not turn it like a bolt. Turn the glow plug slowly and carefully, applying force little by little. If it doesn’t seem to turn, use a scientific formulation of the glow plug and work slowly. By the way, there is an excellent scientific preparation that cools the object, makes it smaller, and allows the wetting agent to penetrate the material, so we recommend you to use it.

If it is a nut, you can use a gas torch to heat it up, but this is not the case with the glow plug.

If you try to remove the glow plug and it doesn’t turn, don’t be afraid to use such a scientific formulation. If it still doesn’t turn, don’t push it off, don’t take it off! Give up on doing it yourself and have a professional do it for you! It’s also important to pull back.

Look at the glow plugs I removed! Maybe we won’t have to replace it?

After removing the glow plug, first take a look at it.

Is the tip of the plug burning white? Is it blackened by soot?

In most cases, 1 out of 4 plugs is black and sooty, and if one plug has a life expectancy, it will interfere with engine starting.

If the tip of the glow plug is white, it is an indication that the plug is generating heat, but if the tip is sooty, it means that the plug is not generating heat, and soot from the combustion process is sticking to the plug.

Then, I connect the black sooty glow plug directly to the battery using a boost cable.

If the glow plug heats up bright red at this time, the glow plug is normal.
Most people who check the glow plug are trying to improve engine starting, but if the glow plug heats up red, you’ll have to find a cause other than the glow plug for the poor engine starting.

There are many possible causes for the black soot adhering to the tip of the glow plug even though it generates heat properly. For example, poor contact between the connection plate and other parts of the glow plug (such as the battery terminal), abnormal combustion due to low compression pressure caused by the loss of the gasket, or low oil level due to deterioration of the stem seal.

If the battery is red hot, you may not need to replace it.

Only one of the four was dead! How many glow plugs do you have to replace?

Basically, all four will be replaced.

If they were installed at the same time, I’m guessing the other three will break in the near future. This is because people will think that it is a good idea.

By the way, the plug which did not become red by the ignition experiment is discarded, but you should keep the one which is still usable. The glow plug for the 4M40 which is sold now seems to be the one which is called the metal plug, but to be clear, it is the one which does not know how long it lasts.

The cost of parts was about 100 dollars for four plugs. If you don’t want to pay $100 every time, you might want to keep it as a spare.

Before the glow plugs… check the power supply on cold-weather vehicles.

Before replacing the glow plug, be sure to check the contact between the battery terminal and the battery on a two-battery car before replacing the glow plug.

Preheating when starting the engine first thing in the morning consumes the most current, so if one of the two batteries is not in good contact with each other, the glow plug may not be able to heat up properly.

If the two batteries are definitely functioning and the engine starting doesn’t improve on top of that, you might want to suspect the glow plug.

Furthermore, it might have something to do with the power output of the alternator.