You’ll see! This comfort. It might be like a new car.
If it has over 200,000 miles, it’s time to do it.
The engine vibrations and accompanying clattering noises at idle have been bothering me, so I decided to take the plunge and replace the engine mount.
I’d like to drive it for 400,000 km if possible…
Then we’re right on the cusp of a turnaround. If we do it now, we’ll be comfortable for the time being…
I thought it was easy to do, and I did it.
Replacing the mounts is easy! The problem is…
The biggest hurdle in replacing the engine mounts is
How to get the engine going.
Do you want to hang it from the top? Do you want to lift it from underneath? I guess it depends on the tools I can use, but I was fortunate enough to be able to use the overhead crane I work with.
I decided to replace the engine mounts by only hanging the front side of the engine without removing the transmission mounts.
The engine was hoisted. Then… what was the pitfall of replacing the engine mounts?
First I took off the hood and removed the intercooler, air cleaner and hoses, the battery and its base, and all the obstructive stuff on the upper part of the hood that might hit the engine when it is lifted.
The alternator and compressor are still intact. 4M40 has an engine hook at the front of the engine originally, but I added another engine hook through the tappet cover because the engine will be tilted if the hook is only used to hang it.
I thought about removing the radiator further, but I thought it would be a hassle later on, so I just removed the hardware that holds the radiator in place.
All of the underguards were removed from the underside of the car. Loosen the nuts that hold the engine mounts in place while accessing them from above, below, etc. and remove them all. Finally, I turned on the crane to lift the engine and slowly lifted it up…
Huh? I can only get the engine up a little bit! What is it?
Oh! Mission is hitting the body!
The transmission hit the body before the tappet cover at all, and it didn’t go up any further (T_T).
I can’t get it off by moving it from side to side. I can’t get it off by lifting it so high that it almost lifts the car up!
I’m almost there and I can’t get it off no matter what I try!
Should we make a “courageous retreat”? What do I do? I was smoking a cigarette and thinking about it when the idea came to me.
Yeah, right! If you can’t get the engine up, just lower the mounts!
So I loosened the 22mm bolts that hold the front undercarriage and lowered the undercarriage, and then one of the mounts fell off. The other side came off without any trouble.
I was able to remove it, so of course it was easy to put it in. With the mounts in place and the engine down, I tightened the nuts holding the undercarriage in place. Now all I have to do is restore it!
I wanted to replace the engine mounts as soon as possible and get the engine started, so the recovery was fast.
Everything is back up and the engine is running!
Oh! Yay! It was a lot of hard work, but we are very happy with the result.
Work involved: engine mount replacement
Expenses: engine mount ($40 x 2)
Work time: about 6 hours
What impressed me: when I loosened the undercarriage bolts, I was able to replace the mounts without having to remove the alternator or compressor.
Best ride with a change of mounts
There’s no more vibration!
The engine noise isn’t exactly like a new car, as you’d expect, but contrary to that engine noise, there’s no vibration transmitted to the steering wheel! This is comfortable!
I didn’t think it would improve so much. The vibration transmitted to the steering wheel at idle and the vibration when the engine is started or stopped. The vibrations of “I don’t know what to do” are gone.
If you put the removed engine mount and the new one side by side, you can see that the old mount has shrunk by almost 10mm.
If you put it horizontally and put it at an angle of 45 degrees, the engine would have been down 14mm.
But once the noise associated with engine vibration was gone, I started to notice a different kind of noise this time.
What would you do without an overhead crane?
If you have a garage or something like that, you could probably use a chain and lever block on the beam of the building to replace the crane. However, the engine itself weighs about 250kg, and the transmission side is fixed as it is, so it won’t take all the weight, but the hanging base will need to be able to withstand a weight of about 200 to 300 kilos.
Or I think that it is also possible to lift the oil pan with a garage jack. However, since the oil pan is not a sturdy thing, you need to lift it carefully by applying something like a wooden horn or something like that without directly applying a jack.
Well, whether you do it with a lever block or use a jack to lift the oil pan, if you’re going to loosen the undercarriage bolts to lower the undercarriage to replace the mounts, you’ll need a separate jack to hang near the transmission mount to lift the front.