Ride quality, steering feel, and tire reduction
I think a lot of people have to wrack their brains over tire choice, pressure, etc. for these three things. I was one of those people.
One of those?
Yeah, I did. I’ve finally graduated from those worries. The alignment adjustment the other day gave me the inspiration to drive with an alignment that is closer to the stock values, and I’ve been able to adjust the tire pressure to the stock value.
Front: 2.0 Rear: 1.8
to. There were only advantages. So let me talk about tire alignment, pressure, and other tire-related conditions here again.
225/80R/15 is in short supply!
I guess there is no demand for this size. If you look for it, you’ll see that it’s quite scarce. Well, if you don’t have this size, I’d be fine with 30×9.5R15 or 235/75R15.
Originally, this 225/80R15 was a rare size ・・・・. Is it just space gear? If you stick with this size, you may have less and less choice in the future.
If you’re commuting or highway use, the vertically dug groove design is quiet.
The L400 Space Gear comes with a standard [all-season] tire. It’s a tire that claims to grip reasonably well on dry asphalt and grip reasonably well on snow and off road. But…
If you’re going to use the L400 normally, Tires with vertical grooves!
I rarely go off-road anymore, I change to proper studded tires in the winter, and the road noise is quieter.
All-season tires are pretty loud. I don’t like it.
Space gear should not be worn with tires larger than the stock tires (225/80/15).
I wonder if it’s different if it’s lifted. I’m riding at stock height, so I just put slightly larger tires (245/70/16), but when I’m getting in and out of the parking lot or when I’m turning the handlebars, I pick up the gap and the tire cud rubs the tire house with the tire cuds when the car sinks down.
Tire houses look big, but I think you should refrain from using tires that are larger than the stock ones because of the way they are calculated.
Especially in the winter, studded tires. In winter, snowflakes from the tire house will stick to the tire house and make it narrower, and you can hear the scraping sound of the tire house.
It’s probably best not to enlarge your tires, but to inch them up.
How to calculate the tire size when inching up?
So even if the width, flatness, and wheel diameter of the tire are different, as long as the overall diameter is the same, it’s fine.
So, let’s take the case of 225/80/15 stock tires.
225 (22.5 cm tire width) 80 (80% flatness when viewed from the side) 15 (15 inch wheel diameter: 1 inch = 2.5 cm) In other words, ・・・・
22.5 x 0.8 x 2 + (15 x 2.5) = 73.5 cm
That’s why. By the way, the tires I’m wearing now are
23.5 x 0.7 x 2 + (16 x 2.5) = 72.9 cm
This means that while the wheel diameter may be larger, the tire as a whole is actually 6mm smaller than the stock tire.
6mm is the diameter, so the tire itself is only 3mm thinner than the stock tire!
Well, I don’t think it will have any effect on me even if it’s this different.
Actually, wheel alignment has a bigger effect than just steering feel!
When you say alignment, do you perceive it as steering feel or “steering wheel right” or something like that?
In fact, it contributes significantly to road noise, fuel economy, and ride comfort. It’s true.
Especially since it has a great impact on [quiet performance] and [driving fatigue], it is recommended to get the wheel alignment checked and maintained by a professional shop, although it may be a little expensive.
Particularly in overdriving cars, the front camber will inevitably become negative when the body of the car is lowered due to the deterioration of the torsion bar and coil springs over time.
The dealer may not have an alignment tester. I think most larger tire shops will be fine.
The price used to be, I think, $100 a wheel, $400 for 4 wheels? But the rear of the space gear is horsing, so you don’t have to adjust the alignment, and since it’s just the two front wheels, it only costs $200.
I think the market seems to be dropping recently, so maybe you can do it cheaper.
Always check the air pressure before you do a wheel alignment!
The inclines and ruts in the road take the tires off the road, and they steer right and left!
Check the air pressure before you think it’s an alignment!
I used to take my hand off the steering wheel and it would go to the left, so I thought, “Is it an alignment…?” but then I checked the air pressure on the GS to see if it was. Then I checked the air pressure on the back passenger side and it was low, so I adjusted the air pressure and the car ran straight!
If we’re talking about suspension, the first thing to do is check the air pressure. Air pressure is the most basic thing you can do.
Tire pressure is best specified by the manufacturer!
Higher tire pressure means better gas mileage and lighter steering.
But I didn’t want to get the handlebars on those gentle ruts on the asphalt, so I had to adjust the toe, but eventually I set the front 2.0kg/cm and rear 1.8kg/cm as specified by the manufacturer. Then I did that.
It runs straight and rides great.
The air pressure should be as specified by the manufacturer (^_^.)
By the way, the air pressure of the manufacturer’s specification is good for up to about 2 inches up (according to the clerk of the tire shop).
When using an external wheel, it should be the same as the stock offset.
‘Any wheel with a six-hole hole will do! Are you thinking that?
It’s true that 6-hole wheels have the same clip bolt location on any other company’s car, though.
But it’s worth remembering that a different offset will change the handling. After replacing it, you may find yourself saying “Huh! I think you’ll feel “something different ・・・・ than before”.
There is an item called [Scrub radius] in the wheel alignment, and this is also changed by the offset of the wheel. The steering wheel becomes heavier or lighter depending on this number, and many other things as well.
I used to use wheels that had the tires just barely reaching the body. It’s a little bit less, but it won’t pass inspection because the tires stick out more than the body. So when I went to the inspection shop for inspection, I put the original wheels on it, but on the way there, I always thought…
I still like the factory wheels.
Tires last longer on 4WD!
This is a strange phenomenon – the tires seem to last longer on the L400 delica space gears if you run them in full time 4WD.
The Toyo trampus I used to use before was running in 4WD and lasted 3 years (roughly 46,000km). The degree of reduction was also equally both front and rear, so there was no need for rotation.
The BF Goodrich Long Trail T/A Tour was purchased after that and I ran it all the time in 2WD. The reason I ran it in 2WD is because it handles just a little bit lighter in 2WD.
However, when I changed the tires at the end of the year, I was surprised! The front tires had worn out more than I expected, and the reduction was obviously faster than when I was driving in 4WD! So the next year I put the reduced front tire on the rear. But when I looked at the front tires at the end of last year when I was replacing them, they were pretty low and it was already time to replace them.
Which front or rear tire will the car be reduced? That being said, it’s very understandable that the front end would be reduced as the heavier ones have a tendency to be reduced first. What I don’t agree with is why did it only last two years? That’s what I mean.
It’s hard to say a conclusion clearly because it’s not the same tire, but the L400 space gear doesn’t lean in curves more than the 2WD. That area may also have relation with the way of decrease of the tire. So…
The L400 Space Gear is recommended to run in 4WD.