The stains on the inside interior of the sliding doors had been bothering me for quite some time, so I decided to repair the caulking around the sliding doors and the heavily damaged rear hatch glass. Water seeping into the car through the sliding door? While I was washing my car in my neighbor’s GS, I heard a clattering sound coming from the sliding door area, so I moved to the back seat and saw that water was coming from the middle of the upper part of the glass of the sliding door! I’ve known for some time that water was leaking from somewhere in the sliding door, but this time I decided to take the plunge and caulk the gap between the glass and the door at the top of the sliding door because it was soaked to the lining of the sliding door. Weatherstripping may not be the cause of the leak At first, is it the rubber (weatherstripping) lining the sliding door opening? I ordered a part, but it is quite expensive. The one at the top of the opening is $30 for the real one, the one that goes all the way around costs $100, and […]
Elements are replaced every 20,000 km? It may depend on the car model, but according to the service data, the fuel filter needs to be changed every 20,000km. That seems a bit short. Normally, you wouldn’t change it in that span of time. But I feel that you should do it every 50,000km at the most for a long time. The reason for that is in the fuel tank. I’ve been shown the inside of a large truck’s fuel tank once, and when I look inside the ano there is quite a bit of debris at the bottom. It doesn’t seem to say that the fuel at the gas station is definitely clean. So I feel it needs to be replaced for me. Why is the inside of the fuel tank so dirty? Whether it is an automobile or a large machine, the inside of the fuel tank is unexpectedly dirty. There doesn’t seem to be any room for sogginess when you’re refueling at a gas station, but the fact that the inside of the tank is so dirty means that there could be debris and other contaminants in the fuel inside the gas station. Well, assuming the cloudy black […]
“What is the unfortunate reason for the later models to be fitted with glow plugs that have lower performance than the earlier models? Just recall the damn thing!
When the early model 4M40 was repaired due to a complaint of poor starting, I had to replace the glow plugs that didn’t need to be replaced, so I decided to recoup the loss with a later model and installed a low priced one! And the rumors sound so real. A disappointing glow plug. I think the glow plugs of a diesel engine are usually the parts that are not replaced until the car is scrapped. However, the glow plug of the late model 4M40 does not last long. Apparently, the cause seems to be because the glow plug is different between the early model 4M40 and the late model 4M40. Although it is a copy of another site, the glow plug installed in the early model is mainly a ceramic plug made by DENSO. The glow plugs installed in the later models are mainly metal plugs made by Bosch. The price is about $50 for one ceramic plug and about $25 for the metal plug. About half the price. By the way, when I told the guy at the machine shop that the space gear glow plugs cost $200 just for the parts, he said Awesome! I’ve been told […]
The shading tube needed to be machined to be used in H7, so I machined it. You can’t use the shading tube as is. I installed the shading tube as it arrived, but for some reason, I was still bombarded with upward facing headlights from oncoming traffic. I turned on the headlights, got out of the car, walked around and looked at my car from about 50 meters in front of the car, and it was still quite bright. There seemed to be quite a bit of glare. So I thought about the principle of shading and decided to modify the shading tube. Why do we get glare? Multi-reflector headlights reflect the light from the reflector to illuminate the front of the vehicle. So when the beam is low, the light is shone on the upper half of the reflector. H7 headlights are designed for low beam only, so I installed them with the cut end of the shading tube facing up. But yet, that’s a problem because there’s also light directly in front of them and upwards! So why does the light come out in the front and upward direction? That’s because the light is leaking out near the […]
Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement This was the cause of the sizzling noise, burning smell and oil leak!
Unacceptable… strange noises and smells. I’ve been wondering about this for a while now, such as the squealing noise when accelerating, smoke and a strange odor that seemed to be from under the hood. Furthermore, there was a burning smell coming from the air conditioner vents! It seems to be interlocked with the boosting system of the turbo when listening to the noise while driving. I don’t know the principle of the turbocharger, but the boost gauge on my surf that I used to drive before shows that the boost pressure goes up from 2000rpm to 3000rpm where the maximum torque comes out of, and the boost pressure goes down when it’s over that. I think it is linked to the transition of the boost pressure which is peculiar to the diesel turbo. And the strange smell and smoke when I went up the uphill of the mountain road at a stretch and stopped. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) Is the manifold gasket loose? According to various sites, the early model 4M40’s have a “blow valve” behind the intake manifold that can deteriorate and cause the boost to fall out. However! My late model 4M40 doesn’t have that! Looking closely […]
Is the noise caused by the knuckles? I honestly didn’t think I could take it apart so much with an amateur DIY. Around last year, I started to hear some strange noise coming from the bottom that was in tune with the axle. The sound seems to be getting a little to loud. But I can’t for the life of me figure out where the sound is coming from. One possible cause of the axle rotation noise could be dragging brake pads, but it’s hard to think of that as the cause of the noise since it’s been properly maintained and the pads are worn out evenly. Another possibility is the hub bearings, but as far as the hub bearings are concerned, they were grease up last year. So I was suspicious of the knuckle. Knuckles have bearings, and I remembered a mechanic I trust once told me that if the knuckles are distorted, they make a strange noise like a bearing. I’ll take out anything that gets in my way. Once the tires are removed, disconnect the harness from the ABS sensor connector, 12mm bolt and clip. Next, remove the brake. The brake can be loosened by putting on […]
You’ll see! This comfort. It might be like a new car. If it has over 200,000 miles, it’s time to do it. The engine vibrations and accompanying clattering noises at idle have been bothering me, so I decided to take the plunge and replace the engine mount. I’d like to drive it for 400,000 km if possible… Then we’re right on the cusp of a turnaround. If we do it now, we’ll be comfortable for the time being… I thought it was easy to do, and I did it. Replacing the mounts is easy! The problem is… The biggest hurdle in replacing the engine mounts is How to get the engine going. Do you want to hang it from the top? Do you want to lift it from underneath? I guess it depends on the tools I can use, but I was fortunate enough to be able to use the overhead crane I work with. I decided to replace the engine mounts by only hanging the front side of the engine without removing the transmission mounts. The engine was hoisted. Then… what was the pitfall of replacing the engine mounts? First I took off the hood and removed the intercooler, […]
Machines are like anything else, but the older they are, the harder it is to get the bolt out! There is a lot of trouble with this. A bolt that won’t turn at all! Normally, it would be very difficult for water to get into the car, but the shock collar (the metal tube that inserts the bolts) and the bolts have stuck together so well that the bolts won’t budge no matter how hard I hit them, and when I turned them around with an impact, the entire bushings turned! When it becomes like this, it is impossible to pull out the bolt except for destruction. Under normal conditions, the bolts and collars move scantily, but the dimensions are very tight, so if any rust occurs, it will stick immediately. However, I have replaced the shocks several times, the last time being about 3 years ago. The last time I noticed the sticking was last year, so it’s been about 2 years since the shocks stuck. It’s hard to imagine it sticking that long, but the bolt in front of me now… it’s stuck! Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) I applied a wetting agent to it. I tried spraying […]
Maybe this problem is the most common pattern. Grease up the linkage as you go, even if it’s a hassle, you may be able to keep it in good shape even if it’s over 300,000km. Slow-moving autostep At around 200,000 km, the autostep started to work poorly. Especially in the winter. Simply “Is it the voltage drop? So I sprayed a moisturizer on the link and left it there. However, the symptom worsened day by day, and finally, I had to pull the link by hand to get it out properly! So we decided to take down the autostep. It came off more easily than I thought. If you jack the rear differential and look at the autostep, there are two connectors at the back of the unit on the autostep, so you need to remove those connectors first. Then remove the two 12mm bolts, one side bolt and two nuts, then you can take the unit down. But it’s pretty heavy! Once it was on my chest, I placed it on the side of my body in a zippered position. The reason for using two nuts was to make it easier to attach them temporarily when assembling them. I’m […]
The auto-step at the back seat entrance is an excellent piece of equipment, but that doesn’t mean it won’t break down forever either. Someday….. An alarm beeps after the steps protrude. After the sliding door is opened and the autostep protrudes, there is now a “beep” sound. The “Half Door Warning Light” was blinking on and off at the meter panel. It was obvious that some kind of trouble was going on! The autostep has a sensor inside the unit that detects when it is extended and retracted. I thought it was probably a problem in this area, but it was still cold and rainy in early spring, so it was difficult to sit up, and I wondered if there was a safety circuit in the car body for the motor of the autostep. The power is automatically turned off, so it doesn’t cause any practical problems, so I took the autostep down, but I finally got motivated to do it. The cause is still the sensor switch. It felt easier to take the autostep down this time, as I’ve repaired the autostep link before. You just have to jack it up enough to fit your body and remove two […]